Side Tracked: Aldwych Station Tour

This December I was lucky enough to get some tickets to visit the ‘abandoned’ Aldwych Tube Station. – Abandoned is a lose term as it is still frequently used as a test facility and film set. It is not on the same par of Abandoned as say, Museum or Brompton Road but it hasn’t seen active service since 1994 and even before then parts of the station had been closed since the early part of the 20th century.

It isn’t my intention to give you a full history lesson on the station, there are better and more established sites for that. There are no shortage of bloggers either who have already visited and catalogued this unique urban experience but, I am as an enthusiast of such things, duty bound to add my experience too.

Aldywch station is somewhat of an anomaly. The original Piccadilly Line on which it was located was born from two separate Tube routes. A north-south route: Finsbury Park – Aldwych and an east-west route: Piccadilly towards Kensington. It was realised that it would be efficient to amalgamate these two routes to form one continuous service at Holborn. Construction of Aldwych had however already begun. This left it at the end of a rather out of place single station branch line. It’s close proximity to both Holborn and Temple meant patronage never picked up – dealing it’s fate very early on in it’s existence. It is evident in the following article that the size of Aldwych originally intended to handle many more passengers than it ever did.

Ticket Office

Let’s start in the ticket office (click to enlarge images)…

The station opened as ‘Strand’ in 1907 and is a product of architect Leslie Green who was responsible for the uniformly designed red terracota tube stations of the time. The ticket hall in the above gallery and many of it’s original Leslie Green tiling and embellishment features have been refurbished for the purpose of filming.

The ticket office feels spacious but largely empty. After all, we’re not used to seeing tube stations without gatelines, copious posters and information signage adorning every space.

*     *     *

Lifts and Closure

Ultimately the reason the station closed in 1994 was down to these original Otis lifts. To bring them in line with modern safety regulations they needed to be refurbished to the tune of £3m. This cost far outstripped the mere 450 passengers using the station daily. As a result Aldwych closed on the 30th September of that year. In fact, if Aldwych was open now it would be the least used station on the Underground network just above Roding Valley (570 people per day). Ironically Aldwych wasn’t the least used station in 1994. This accolade went to both Ongar and North Weald who collectively only managed 100 daily passengers. They also closed on the same day.

The lifts have been wonderfully preserved although they are no longer operational – being fixed in their place at street level. Originally Aldwych was to have 6 lifts: 2 lifts in each of 3 shafts. From the off passenger levels were predicted to be low so only 1 shaft was fitted out. Notice the secret trap door which enabled emergency evacuation to the other lift should one fail. This was a common feature of lift designs in tube stations of the time. In 1922 the tickets were issued by the lift operator following the closure of the ticket office. A bell would be rung when a train left Holborn alerting the lift operator to the approaching service. Also note the numbers above the lift which would rise and fall in relation to where the lift was in the shaft.

*     *     *

Lower Level

Descending the stairs to reach platform level we arrive at the lower end of the lift shafts. Apparently ‘Mr Selfridge’ had used the station as a set hence the sign pointing towards the ‘Bakerloo Line.’ It is often easy to forget in operational tube stations the embellishments left by architect Leslie Green, in this environment they jump out at you albeit in a decaying way.

Shuttle services would depart Aldwych’s two Platforms bound for a either the bay platform or through platform at Holborn. In it’s early days a through train would operate for late night theatre goers. This however was discontinued and the eastern platform was taken out of use just 7 years after opening in 1914. It was then closed off and sealed behind a maintenance door. It would not see action again until it was used as a museum store and later an air raid shelter in WWII.

*     *     *

Western Platform

The station was mooted for closure as early as the late 1920’s but managed to hobble along with a skeleton service for another 65 years. This platform remained in use for shuttle services from Holborn until 1994. On construction only half the platform decoration was completed as it was only ever served by short 2 car trains. It is quite clear to see the point where the decoration finishes and the bare tunnel begins. The line and junction with the Piccadilly main line remains opperational and trains can still enter this platform for the purpose of filming, and normally a 1967 stock train is stored somewhere in the tunnel between here and Holborn. The station roundel, although convincing, was actually part of a cheaply installed film set. Presumably the station was being portrayed sometime after it had it’s name changed in 1915. Most of this platform is in decent condition but it is hard to tell if damage and apparent decay is real or part of a film set. It has been used in the past as a location in Creep, V for Vendetta and 28 Weeks Later to name but a few.

*     *     *

Eastern Platform

Closed to passenger use in just 1914 the Eastern Platform definitely is in a worse condition. This part of the station I felt is what people had come to see. The Western Platform is kept in a faux state of good repair for it’s film usage and as a result doesn’t quite have that ‘abandoned’ quality I know many seek to experience. The Eastern Platform is as close as you are going to get to a Ghost Station in decay without visiting the likes of Museum, Brompton Road or Down Street. This is the real Aldwych.

Although.. look closer and parts of it aren’t Aldwych at all! Tiling experiments for other stations appear sporadically along the tunnel walls. Quite a large mock up of Piccadilly Circus’ tiling adorns the far corner next to some light blue ones presumably from a suburban Victoria Line Station. Elements from Charing Cross appear in the stair way along with Bond Street which has been chipped away to reveal the original Leslie Green ‘Strand’ motif and pattern. Along with many test posters from many eras this mutation of very new on very old element to this platform is quite bizarre, but quite accurately mimics what would happen if you strip away the modern coating on many tube stations in operation today.

At one end of the station the trackbed has been paved over. This was to accommodate museum artefacts and later people during the WWII Blitz. At the other end the overrun tunnel can be seen with a chair and wheelbarrow dumped and forgotten about in the mists of time. Genuine original Leslie Green tiling can also be seen next to an unfinished staircase leading back to the lifts.

The track here is the original 1907 installation and is actually listed along with the unusually square conductor rail insulators! Notice there were no ‘suicide pits’ at the time.

*     *     *

Posters

None of the posters in the station are originals. Most on the Western Platform have been carefully chosen to depict whichever era is relevant for the film set (in this case quite obviously WWII!). Those in the Eastern Platform are a mismatch from various times and have been used as tests for new glues and adhesives. It’s quite odd to see a poster for Britain joining the European Common Market on a platform clearly closed at a time when that dream was far from reality. Almost as if you are time travelling whilst walking down the platform.

*     *     *

Unfinished

Finally we were lead into a truly abandoned part of the station. Originally the station was designed to have two routes from the lift shafts to platform level. Passengers would enter through one side of the lifts and exit through the other. This was designed to regulate the flow of passengers in one direction only, much like Covent Garden is today. Due to the low usage it was deemed safe enough for everyone to enter and exit the lift at platform level through the same doors. The rest of the infrastructure was therefore never completed and never opened at all. The Museum and TfL rarely open this part of the station up so we were lucky to get a peak inside.

This area was very dark and very eerie. Some salty residue dripped from the ceiling which reminded my friend about a rather terrifying episode of Dr. Who he’d watched as a kid with killer foam filling the tunnels on the Underground.

What If?…

It’s somewhat of a mystery why Aldwych was ever completed at all, and at times even more amazing it survived for so long. Perhaps other opportunities were missed in improving Aldwych’s fortunes, such as why was an underground link not provided with nearby Temple? This may have improved the stations footfall as an interchange facility. Why was Holborn constructed in such a way with only 1 through platform provided? This surely scuppered any future suggestions of southern extensions.

Future of Aldwych

So now we come to the end of our visit to Aldwych, at least for now. Throughout it’s history numerous suggestions were made for alternative uses for the station. Many suggestions of an extension southwards to Waterloo never materialised. Probably due to the Northern Line providing this function and the need to rebuild Holborn to accommodate a full two way service.

More recent suggestions include using the shell of the building to form part of a DLR extension from bank towards Trafalgar Square. Although the platforms wouldn’t be used, overrun tunnels from the nearby ex-Jubilee Line platforms at Charing Cross would be utilised.

His Borisness has also hinted towards selling off London’s unused Underground spaces. In fact this has already happened at Brompton Road. Similar to the New York Transit Museum, which is located in an almost identical single station branch line arrangement, Aldwych could be opened up as a dedicated museum piece. The New York counterpart is able to showcase more rolling stock at a platform level than the current Transport Museum can accommodate in Covent Garden which would be a nice positive. However, it is my belief that Aldwych should be left alone, only to be opened up as it is – rarely, so the public can benefit from the more authentic ghost station feel and to see some of it’s original untampered with features.

In time however it is only inevitable that it will fall into such decay that maintenance to make it safe, for filming, for testing, for public viewings or even as a museum piece would need to be carried out. But for the time being whilst it’s in such a historic state, I implore you to get on a tour next year! You won’t regret it.

Holborn

Holborn Abandoned Platform

Image by ‘PaulN

It’s easy to forget that Aldwych is only half the story! Although this was not part of the tour, there are two unused Platforms at Holborn which often get forgotten in the Aldwych tale. One of which remains in very good condition with excellent examples of original Leslie Green tiling work. It also survives as a testing and filming facility.

Thanks

A big thanks to the staff of the Transport Museum for a splendid and knowledgeable tour.

Also huge plaudits to my colleague, friend and cameraman Danny Cox who took the images you have seen.

Andy Carter
(All Images by Danny Cox and Andy Carter
with exception to Holborn by ‘PaulN’)

Side Tracked: Railway Roundup

There have been quite a few railway related stories surfacing in the press in the last week. Hopefully this post will help curate some of the more interesting ones.

Looking To Buy?

Three stories caught my eye this week as various railway memorabilia goes on sale. If perhaps the world of modelling is a little small fry for you, then check out this report from the BBC.. A railway carriage from the Victorian era, left in a hedge in the grounds of a posh Dorset B&B has recently just sold for £2300. It has been living out it’s life as a garden shed after being purchased by the former owner of Birkin House. In need of a touch of paint it apparently is in good condition inside. £2300 could be a smart investment as relics like this are few and far between. Continue reading

Side Tracked: Petite Ceinture

It’s not just London with a whole host of abandoned rail infrastructure. The Petite Ceinture (or The Little Belt) was built in 1852 and was Paris’ version of The Circle Line connecting the cities main line termini. The 20 mile line was eventually closed when competition from The Paris Metro made it obsolete. It is now a facilitating hidden space within the city, and is being documented by Thomas Jorion.

Another great little insight into the line is featured here by from the BBC

Image by J.M. Schomburg

Side Tracked: HS2 – Thoughts So Far

Bureaucracy and Time Frame

Here is a recent BBC article on the proposed HS2 project.

It uses words and phrases such as committee, required legislation, economy, tax payer and National Audit Office. The kind of vocab that rhymes with dull, red tape, and needless paperwork.

It seems that as the rest of Europe advances with upgrading and constructing high speed rail networks, Britain is being left behind whilst umming and ahing over whether this is a worth while venture and how many birds nests it may upset en route. Let’s for a moment disregard HS1 and for the sake of argument say that HS2 is Britain’s first high speed intercity rail link. I’d like to compare it with the construction of the first ever intercity railway in the early 19th Century – The Liverpool and Manchester railway.

Liverpool & Manchester Railway HS2
Year Proposed L&MR Company founded 1823 HS2 Company Limited founded 2009
Year Approved 1826 2015 (Estimated)
Proposed Length 35 Miles 119 Miles (To Birmingham)
Construction Starts 1826 2015 (Proposed)
Year Opened 1830 2026 (Proposed to Birmingham)
2033 (Proposed to Manchester
Build Time 4 Years 11 Years (Estimate to Birmingham)
+ 9 Years (Estimate to Manchester)
Total Time
(From Conception to Completion)
7 Years 27 Years (Estimate to Birmingham)
+ 9 Years (Estimate to Manchester)

So what have we learnt?

That somehow in just under 200 years of human progress it now takes us 20 years longer to complete a major infrastructure project. What an utter failure of modern bureaucracy.

Ok, so there are some things I should address that would seem to skew the data in favour of our Victorian cousins:

  • HS2 would be a hell of a lot longer. By a factor of about 3. But, saying this, even if you duplicated the Liverpool and Manchester Railway 3 times it still would have only taken a maximum of 12 years (1 year more than HS2) to build. That’s assuming the first 35 miles were finished and opened before any work on the next 35 had even begun, which in any project like this would have been unlikely.
  • The only opposition the Victorians would have had to worry about were wealthy land owners en route. They could likely be paid off with cash or the promise of stations serving their land. The everyday man would not have been considered if they needed to plough right through a working class housing estate. The environment wouldn’t have really been considered either. Rightly so, we should think about Jon Smith in rural Buckinghamshire and what his gerbils will say if we blast a 200mph train right through his front room, but it does rather spoil the development of a good railway.
  • Health and Safety was not a term the Victorians understood. There were no regulations, requirements and standards to adhere to. In fact William Huskisson, MP for Liverpool, died on the opening day because he was wandering about on the tracks…
  • HS2 will be run at a much, much faster speed. This will place restrictions on how the line is built, something the L&MR would not have had to worry about. It must be as flat and as straight as possible for example. Despite this you can’t forget that the L&MR was built nearly 200 years ago, without the aid of modern construction techniques and huge machinery and when nobody had ever built an intercity railway before.

Even factoring in the difference in technology, length, health and safety and opposition HS2 really shouldn’t be taking this long to build. If we got the Victorians to do it, we might have it open by 2016. We are being hampered by red tape, boring green types who don’t want to dislodge some badgers and a couple of home owners who don’t want it to spoil their garden. Surely the benefit of building it far out weighs the negatives both now and looking ahead to the future. Or does it?

Economic Benefits

Why do we think we need a high speed rail network?

  • We can go places faster. Time is money. Money is good for Britain. The theory is companies will invest in Birmingham because they can do business quicker with London.
  • Relieve congestion on the M1/M6/M40 and Existing West Coast Mainline.
  • To be greener and encourage people out of their cars and off short-haul airlines.
  • Because Europe has one and we want one too.

The economic benefit of the L&MR was absolutely clear. To transport people and goods in the 1830’s you would have either had to take it by Horse and Cart which would have taken the best part of a day and probably been dangerous. Highwayman and whatnot. The alternative waterways, not fully developed themselves would have not been much quicker and were fast becoming expensive. The inaugural journey on the 15th September 1830 took 4 hours. And this included a couple of minor derailments and the running over of William Huskisson’s leg. So in reality, on a good day it may have only taken 3. 3-4 hours seems like a long time to do 35 miles in todays standards but at the time this was astronomically quick, and much safer than the alternatives.

Same applies with HS2 right? Doing stuff faster is always going to beneficial. If we can get stuff to and from the capital quicker, more business can be done. Business is good. Time is money.

At the moment (Google suggests) it would take 125 minutes to drive from London Euston to Birmingham New Street. (Probably a bit longer than this what with traffic) And using the already existing rail network would take 90 minutes. HS2 promises to do this in 49 minutes. A reduction of 41 minutes. Figures vary on cost, but these on the actual HS2 Website seem fairly official: £21bn for Phase One (London – Birmingham). That works out at a staggering £512m for every minute reduced. Ah. That’s quite expensive. And that’s what our current politicians are struggling with. Is it really worth the immediate outlay of £21bn to save 41 minutes? If you look at it that way, No.

However, so far, I have deliberately isolated the ‘Phase One’ part of this project. It’s easy to say no, it’s not worth the cost, when you only look at Phase One in this way. After all, Europe’s High Speed rail shifts people between countries and over great distances, London to Birmingham – a mere 119 miles – seems small fry in comparison. But once you read onto chapter (Phase) Two things may start to make more sense:

  • The journey from London to Manchester is cut in half from 2 hrs to 1 hr. In comparison Driving would likely take 4 hrs, and with check-in waits and additional airport travel this would beat the equivalent flight.
  • A much more diverse set of destinations and their connections suddenly come on offer making it faster to travel around more of the UK (not just between London and the Midlands).
  • Heathrow, Birmingham and Manchester Airports all become linked.
  • The Northern Cities are then connected to HS1 in London and therefore the rest of Europe too.
  • The high speed infrastructure by 2033 is then in place to be expanded towards Scotland beyond this (or even before this) date.

The plot starts to unfold and suddenly everything makes a bit mores sense – We shouldn’t look at HS2 as one line, more the introduction of a completely new high speed network made up of lots of lines and lots of future lines. Without Phase One we won’t have all these benefits of Phase Two. So once Phase Two is built the economic gain is clear?

Well this article by KPMG (commissioned by HS2 Limited) suggests it would boost the economy by £15bn a year with Birmingham and the Midlands (at the heart of the high speed network) benefiting the most. It also explains at length that time saved (and speed) is not really as important as the extra seats gained and the reduction in congestions on both other national rail services and the road network. HS2 is not just a means to speed up travel but a method to increase capacity: With a bigger capacity there is more custom, labour and goods to choose from for businesses in The Midlands.

Robert Peston then points out that KPMG have assumed that a transport network at capacity is the only thing hampering businesses in the Midlands. Things like workforce skill and land price and availability are sort of… overlooked. Some also point out that there’s a good chance KPMG are right, a larger capacity will provide an increase in custom labour and goods… but for London and not Birmingham. Meaning The Midlands would actually miss out on business and further feed the economic black hole that is London – sucking all the growth out of the rest of the country.

I’ve also noticed another glaring assumption in both articles. Businesses may be keen to have their workforce and custom come from a wider catchment area, BUT, those of a manufacturing (yes we still do some of that in Britain) disposition can’t very well load their product onto a high speed train. They’d still be shipping stuff by road, (or at a push rail freight on the old network) – slowly.

What About The Alternatives?

There are clear positives and there are clear negatives. There are also some pretty clear unknown variables. Businesses in the north may benefit, people might leave the car at home, but most of these factors we can’t fully answer unless we actually go ahead and build it. Or, if we don’t build it. And if we don’t is there something we should do instead?

  • Upgrade the existing network. 51M are one of a number of organisations against HS2 and have drawn up proposals to better use the money to improve the current infrastructure. Most of these suggestions are hinged around running longer and more frequent trains between London and the North. A counter report by the Government implies that these ‘quick fix’ suggestions won’t be as beneficial in the long run than building a completely new line. They all seem to also ignore the sheer level of disruption they’d likely cause current services by the need to extend or build new platforms at Manchester Piccadilly & London Euston, grade separating a number of junctions and bypassing slow sections of the West Coast Main Line. The ‘more trains’ argument ekes to squeeze the most out of the capacity we already have, rather than increasing it for the future.
  • Improve Freight. Rail freight would have once been the only efficient way to move goods around the country. After a steady decline in the middle of the 20th Century, rail freight is once again on the rise in the UK. None of the alternative suggestions to HS2 address freight demand and what impact a heavier passenger service would have on the capacity for freight on our existing network. HS2 itself doesn’t address that businesses tend to also want to move STUFF about the country as well as people. Some of the money could be better used to improve and encourage businesses to use rail freight instead of HGV’s. (There’s even the possibility of high speed freight). Although as Network Rail clearly point out in this report, the actual act of building HS2 would free up freight capacity on the existing network anyway. This seems to be being forgotten when we try to decide if HS2 is of economic benefit.
  • Alternative destinations. As Robert Peston suggested, businesses also look for a skilled workforce when choosing their potential locations. Cambridge is a city with relatively bad transport links to the rest of the country but with a reputation for hosting high tech and innovative companies, often being known as Silicon Fen. Although the rail and road links to London are acceptable more could be done to improve transport links to the rest of the country to push more growth into the region. The Southwest and Wales also missed out of any high speed rail proposals could certainly gain from upgrades to The Great Western Mainline especially between London and Reading which suffers heavy overcrowding.
  • Improve the Road Network. “New-Motorway” may be somewhat of a dirty word but many of the internet’s road fanatics would have you believe there’s a good case the M11 should be extended northwards as an ‘East Coast’ alternative north/south route. It would arguably reduce congestion on the M1 and M6 – something HS2 intends to tackle. Although partially logical, this idea is quite unlikely given the fact the A1 pretty much does this job already. It’s also undergone recent upgrade work to grade separate most junctions so the improvements have already been done. The A1 also goes past nothing whatsoever for the majority of it’s route so this idea has relatively little scope in what it would offer the economy other than a tool to relieve congestion elsewhere. There are however much more sensible ideas such as improving the A14 corridor but these won’t solve any of our rail based needs.

Now I’m coming to the end of this article I need to wrap things up. I wanted to get to this point and say the reasons for building HS2 are absolutely clear and there’s no reason that all this bureaucracy should be holding it back. Except it’s not as black and white as the Liverpool & Manchester Railway where the argument for building it was absolutely clear. I’m starting to understand why there are so many for and against reports filling your heads with facts and figures. If we get this wrong then we end up with an overly congested network that hasn’t been brought up to speed with the rest of Europe…. OR… a huge white elephant that we as the tax payer have built. Remember the Liverpool & Manchester Railway was a private venture not being proposed by the government and not accountable to the taxpayer. Perhaps this answers why it was built so quickly! Maybe we should privatise…